An unforgettable adventure

Why did we not choose the Inca Trail?

For travelers seeking an adventurous and budget-friendly way to reach Machu Picchu, the Salkantay Trek is the right choice. It allows you to save on expenses for a tour guide, which is mandatory for the Inca Trail. However, the Inca Trail leads you to the Sun Gate on the last day, which is believed to have been used as a security checkpoint for the ancient city.

Transport to Mollepata

(starting point of the Salkantay trek)

In Cusco, we took a colectivo to Mollepata, which departed from the opposite side of a gas station on Av. Apurimac Avenida. There will be one van waiting; it does not resemble a typical bus stop, so it's easy to miss. However, if you ask around, someone will surely show you the way.

Once you arrive in Mollepata, you need to pay the entrance fee for the lagoon. The ticket office is located at the bus stop. Now, you can begin your hike or, as we did, take a taxi to Soraypampa.

Our Taxi Toyota Corolla

Day One

Vamos!

Soraypampa was our starting point and in front of us was a mountain that unfolds Laguna Humantay. Due to our bus's delay, we had to skip that and head towards Salkantay Mountain. But we are sure, the visit of Laguna Humantay is worth it.

Laguna Humantay

Soon after starting the trek, we felt the need to replenish our energy and took our first sweet break.

Bring some sweet, protein or muesli bars with you, it helped us many times to refill our energy.

Throughout our hike, we watched the landscape with amazement. On the way up, there is a group of stone houses in one of which you have the last chance to buy some supplies for the journey. Often we passed horse convoys, and to reach the top we hopped over rocks on the river flowing down the mountain. On our way up, Mathew found a horseshoe that not only became an ornament in his backpack, but which brought us good luck on our expedition and on others to follow. Soon the mist was upon us, and before we reached the top of Mount Salcantay, it covered the whole landscape, and we found ourselves in a mysterious sphere. As we were at 4629 m. above sea level, Matheus got a headache.

towards Salkantay Mountain

towards Salkantay Mountain

towards Salkantay Mountain

towards Salkantay Mountain

Video 01

Drink plenty of water and more. Fruits like tangerines also worked well. For a Peruvian experience, inhale agua de florida or chew coca leaves.

Here the enjoyment of the scenery ceased, the road took us through the fog and the only ones to spot were the chinchillas watching the travelers in their land.

Top of the Salkantay Valley

Top of the Salkantay Valley

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Fortunately, we reached a village as darkness fell, but no answer was given to our "Hello?". So Matej opened the gate and I followed him, shining my mobile phone on the road. The village was dark and empty, the only sign of local life was the barking of dogs. It wasn't long before we started to sprint back to the gate. We barely had time to close the gate before the dogs caught up with us and we were glad to be separated from the wild dogs by a wall. Why is everyone gone? Is anyone coming back? Curiosity was catching up with me. The mystery of the fog took over the darkness, and feelings of fear and worry mingled in me as to whether we would find a place to spend the night nearby.

After about an hour's walk we came across a farm offering accommodation. My fears were growing. It is dark, we are in the middle of the mountains far from civilization and with a flashlight we follow a flat farmer to one of the brick huts. 
"Muy bien!" Matheo exclaimed. 
"This is no muy bien." I replied in horror. 
My gaze froze on the work clothes hanging all over the room. This "accommodation lacked a floor and windows, but it had two small beds with thick blankets and that was all we needed at the time. We joked for a while, scared for a while, but after a dinner of dry Chinese instant noodles, we slept through the challenging conditions.

video 03

cold toilet outside the farm

Day Two

In the morning we woke up alive and unharmed at the haunted farm and moved on as quickly as possible. Our faithful companion became a canine friend. Since he made our trip so much more fun, he earned the name Diego. The village was much further than it seemed on google maps, after about 4 hours we reached Collpapampa. The local dogs were protecting their home, or they already knew Diego and chased him back into the woods. We never found him again...

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There were plenty of shops in the area, but the same could not be said for the restaurants. The first hostel we inquired at didn't offer breakfast. Fortunately, in the second one, although it was still under construction, the family was willing to start cooking. She offered us a room to relax in and soon a very large breakfast was being served.

Breakfast in Hostel

Afterwards, between chickens, we bought a supply of sweets and faced "only" 10 km of travel.

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Buy your long lasting food in Cusco, the shops from Soraypampa to the finish are more expensive.

This time we were aware of the trek ahead of us, but our enthusiasm never left us. On the contrary, we fell even more in love with the wandering and enjoyed the nature around us. Occasionally there were obstacles in front of us, such as narrow paths trodden up a steep slope without any barriers.

Narrow Path with no Barrier

We also fell victim to sand flies because we didn't carry repellent in our gear. However, we were encouraged by the locals who always had kind words of encouragement and cheer. Most of all the last one, when we were taking a break in a shadow, a local lady walking by told us that it was only a 20 minute walk to Sahuayaco. At that point we literally jumped up and almost ran into the village together. We found our accommodation and gathered strength for our last most challenging day.

A Victim of sand flies

The path is not suitable for adventurers who are afraid of heights.

Always have repellent in your gear when wandering.

Day Three

The best for last.

There are to ways you can continue your way. To St. Teressa, which some people might find interesting or straight to Aguas Calientes (your final point). We clearly decided to reach our final destination by the end of the day. One traveller thought we were crazy, but we made it! And in the end, so did she!

First you face a high mountain, the hike is challenging as it is quite steep. In return, you can enjoy fresh water from the springs of the stream flowing from above and an incredible view once you climb the mountain. There are a couple of restaurants at the top, but all with a view so you can take a nice break. It's all downhill from here!

always drink enough fluids

Restaurant with the view

Lunch break with a view

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Then after about 10 minutes of walking, the next surprise, the Inca ruins, followed. The first traces of Incas we came across, success seemed within reach and then looking at the surrounding mountains we were indeed looking at Machu Picchu. This moment was impressive for us. We enjoyed it for a while, imagining the possible life of the Incas here... or rather, impossible given our knowledge, and set off down the spiral. That's what I called my least favorite part of the trip. It may only be a downhill, but every few steps you alternate a left turn with a right turn, and it made me queasy.

Vanessa has arrived at the Inca ruins

First Inca ruins on Salkantay Trek

there, I can see it. Machu picchu is there

The subsequent crossing of the swaying bridge seemed like a piece of cake. Finally, a straight, unobstructed road stretched out in front of us. Even more joy came to us when we saw the main road. Our strength seemed to be exhausted, so we could have used a ride in the car. Now it was just a matter of carrying out the plan. As soon as we saw the cars passing, Matheo began to hitchhike and I gesticulated, palms facing each other, to indicate a request. No one stopped us, however, and so we continued walking.

Now that explains it all! The main road ends where the train treks begin. Here is the check point, where they check your identity card and write down the necessary details (name, nationality, date and time of arrival). There is no fee, as there usually is, to enter the nature reserve.

If not by car, then by train, we told ourselves. After a long wait in line for the train tickets, we learned that the tickets were expensive, for us. In Peru, tourists usually pay more for public services than locals. Plus, the 4 hour trip seemed totally manageable compared to the distance we had traveled to get here. We walked along the railroad treks, tasted the smell of the rainforest for the first time, and looked up at the Inca ruins that stood across the river.

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Machu Picchu in the distance

The train station

Visible ruins from below

After 3,5 hours, we reached the entrance to the hike to Machu Picchu. We were beside ourselves with anticipation, but since we still didn't have tickets, we had to walk away. Our arrival in Aguas Calientes was spectacular, the city finally shining on our path, music playing and dancing around. In no other mountain village can you experience what you do in Peru. Because their culture is so special, we too were drawn into their world and extended our stay by a night. At the same time, we had the opportunity to regenerate. You can enjoy the thermal baths or just the town itself. Trust us, after the Salcantay trek, a day of rest will be appreciated.

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Set off around 6am, allow plenty of time for each part of the trek and don't underestimate the rest breaks.