Without exaggeration one of the most beautiful cities we ever visited.

Although at first it appeared to be either an unfinished city or, on the contrary, already crumbling. Our point of view immediately changed after we arrived to our hostel (Pirwa Colonial) in the historical center of Cusco.

We took taxi from terminal Terrestre (main Bus station in Cusco) to the city center and we paid 20Pen. When we were leaving Cusco from the same bus station it cost only 8Pen from the center to the terminal. Taxi drivers, like everywhere else in the world, will try to rip you off. For here you need to use your bargaining skills.

Day One

When we arrived at our hostel, we were already amazed by the beauty of the square called Plaza San francisco and we had no idea what gems were still waiting for us.

After dropping off our bags at the aforementioned hostel, we immediately went on a discovery walk through the streets of Cusco but first things first, COFFEE! The journey was a tough one and we didn't get much quality sleep so it seemed like the most sanest idea. With excitement we wandered the cobbled streets and watched the city slowly wake up. Just a few steps and we came across the first cafe, cafe Macchiato with a wide range of offerings including breakfast.

Cafe Machiato

With fresh energy, we set off to explore the city further.

After a short while, Mercado Central de San Pedro emerged from the background and we immediately knew, how we were going to spend the rest of the morning.

As we entered the main entrance we were surrounded by a seemingly endless line of shops selling souvenirs, figurines, clothing, ponchos, backpacks and hats adorned with traditional designs of Peruvian culture.

Al Mercado San Pedro

But this part of the market is probably only one eighth of the whole complex. Next come juice bars, food corners offering breakfast and lunch in one, and a wide selection of fruits and vegetables both fresh and dried. Stalls selling tea, coffee, spices and tobacco, pulses and baked goods, even natural elixirs, miracle ointments and home remedies are available everywhere you look. An unusual, almost drastic spectacle can be experienced at the butcher's counters where are not only pieces of lean fillets but literally every organ or body part from a cow or pig are processed and displayed on the spot. Here you can see that meat does not just grow in supermarkets and taste the reality of eating meat.

After a short decision we chose to have a vegetarian lunch that day.

video of Local Market AL MERCADO SAN PEDRO

We bought rice and vegetables and made our way to our hostel where we started preparing our lunch in a small kitchen.

Cusco is a jumping-off point for most of our destinations like the rainbow mountains and Machu Picchu. So right after lunch we set out to find out where to purchase our tickets to MachuPicchu.

After a bit of research, we discovered another relatively small but picturesque square named Plaza Regocijo with a beautiful fountain in the middle. Vanessa immediately took up the position of model and the photoshoot could begin.

Plaza Regocijo

Since we had not been thoroughly informed about the city, we were constantly absorbed in wondering where in the world we were. Our amazement peaked the moment we walked through another alleyway and found ourselves in the heart of the Cusco on Plaza de Armas. Ahead of us, the landmark cathedral del Cuzco towered into the sky, and all around us the magnificent colonial architecture surrounded us.

Plaza de Armas

Day Two

Our day started with breakfast at the market where we both ate to our hearts content for just 12 pen and had coffee refilled until we had enough. Then we went on further, to explore the city, shopping for souvenirs and sampling streetfood. In the evening we were craving something familiar so we went for a pint at a local Irish pub at Paddy's which has a beautiful view right on the Plaza de Armas.

Irish pub at Paddy's

Day Three

After two nights in the hostel Pirwa Colonial, we decided to find accommodation elsewhere because of the unsympathetic atmosphere there. We came across one with the funny name Okidoki Cuzco Hostal while looking for a laundry room, so we made a reservation there. The service there was really nice and the hostel was very clean, we even met our first Czech native there. However, we only spent two nights there again because this time, there was no hot water and the busy street kept us awake at night.

Public laundries are a common thing in South America. Laundry is charged by the kilo. We found one where we paid only 5 pen per kilo.

Day Four

In the morning we headed towards the Mercado with the intention of catching something there for breakfast. But on the way there we were stopped by a group of strangely clothed young boys. They held shields and axes in their hands and began to get into a sort of fighting formation. Suddenly, another group of young warriors, also dressed and armed, emerged from behind the corner. And then another and another. This went on for about half an hour until the whole street was swarming with these adolescents armed to the teeth. Something told us, we were entering a kind of traditional ceremony. And indeed. Warachikuy is an ancestral Inca ritual of initiation of male maturity. In the Inca Empire, Warachikuy was a ceremony where young men, after undergoing various tests of skill and valor, could receive the official status of an adult man.

Today Warachikuy is still an important festival which represents the Andean cultural heritage. The celebrations are held annually at the archaeological site of Saksaywaman near Cusco on the third Sunday of September. It was all accompanied by colorfully dressed savages carrying corncobs and various artefacts signifying Inca culture. On top of the walls of the buildings stood boys with shells that function as trumpeting instruments. Flutes played on the sides of the streets and drummers beat drums. In the midst of all the action was a figure depicting the mighty Inca king and, for the time being, his gentle counterpart. It all ended with a military parade in the middle of Plaza de Armas and a speech by the mayor of Cusco himself.

Without expecting it, the opportunity arose for us to be present at these ceremonies and to observe the whole thing with amazement, literally from the front row.

Young men by Warachikuy ceremony

WARACHIKUY CEREMONY

Warachikuy Ceremony

Warachikuy Ceremony

Day Five

Our brand new hostel Casa Arrieros wit a beautiful view on the historical center of Cusco, was located a short distance from the tourist trail leading to various monuments and even ruins so the first thing we did, was to visit the Acueducto de Spantiana.

Then we went to the statue of Jesus (Cristo Blanco) watching over the cusco and finally at sunset we visited the ruins of the Moon Temple (Temple de la Luna).

ruins of the Moon Temple

statue of Jesus

Sunset in ruins of the Moon Temple

Day Six

We continued our traditional hostel exchange again due to the lack of hot water. Don't be fooled. We're not some sisi's but showering in icy water when it's 10 degrees outside is not for everyone.

However, we stayed in another hostel for the rest of our stay in Cusco. From there we visited the rainbow mountains and also left our things for travelling around Salkantay.

Luggage storage in hotels is commonplace almost everywhere and usually free.

Unfortunately we did not get a refund of our original tickets from the vendor Redbus. And after few days of sending emails, we gave up our hopes for an compensation completely.